Why Washing Machines Break Down
Drain pumps and filtersSocks, coins, hair ties and lint end up in the drain path. On most front loaders a small filter behind a panel at the bottom front catches them, and a clogged filter or jammed pump is behind many not-draining calls.
Lid switches and door locksA washer will not fill, agitate or spin unless the lid switch or door lock tells the control the lid or door is shut and locked. A worn switch or failed lock is one of the most common parts replaced.
Belts, couplers and motorsDepending on the design, the motor turns the drum through a belt, a motor coupling or a direct-drive rotor. A worn belt, broken coupler or failed motor leaves the drum still while the washer hums or fills.
Water inlet valveAn electric valve behind the washer lets hot and cold water in. When it sticks or its screens clog, the washer fills slowly, not at all, or keeps filling.
Suspension and bearingsShock absorbers, dampers and springs hold the tub steady during the spin. When they wear, the washer bangs and walks. Worn drum bearings make a rumbling or grinding noise that gets louder on the spin cycle.
Hoses, seals and the door bootFill hoses age and crack, drain hose clamps loosen, and the rubber door boot on a front loader can tear or trap water. Leaks usually start small under the washer before they show on the floor.
What a Technician Checks
Drain pump and filterIf water stays in the drum, the technician checks the drain path first. Most front loaders have a pump filter behind a small panel at the bottom front, and many top loaders hide a pump that can jam on a sock or coin. The pump is then tested for power and blockage.
Drain hose and standpipeThe drain hose runs to a standpipe or laundry sink. A kinked hose, a clog in the standpipe or a hose pushed too far down the pipe can stop draining or siphon water out mid-fill.
Lid switch or door lockTop loaders use a lid switch or lid lock and front loaders use a door lock. If the control cannot confirm the lid or door is shut and locked, the washer will not fill, agitate or spin, and a technician tests the switch and its wiring.
Drive belt, coupler and motorBelt-drive washers turn the drum with a belt; others use a motor coupling or a direct-drive motor bolted to the tub. A hum with no movement, a burning smell or a drum that turns by hand too easily points here.
Water inlet valve and hosesAn electric valve meters hot and cold water in. A technician checks its inlet screens for sediment and tests its coils when the washer fills slowly, will not fill, or will not stop filling.
Water level sensingA pressure switch or sensor tells the control how much water is in the tub. A blocked air tube or failed switch can cause overfilling, underfilling or a washer that will not move on to the next step.
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