Washer Leaking From the Bottom: Causes and Fixes

A washer leaking from the bottom is usually losing water at a hose connection, the drain hose, the door seal on a front-loader, or a part inside the cabinet such as the pump or tub seal. Start with the outside connections and the way you load and dose detergent, because those cause many puddles and cost little or nothing to fix. If the water is coming from inside the machine, it is a job for a technician.

First, stop the water and make it safe

Before you touch anything, turn the washer off, unplug it, and shut both the hot and cold supply valves behind it. GE notes that pressing the power button does not disconnect the washer from electricity, so unplugging is the step that counts. Keep those valves closed any time you pull the washer out, reach into the pump filter or open a panel. GE also recommends closing the faucets when the washer is not in use, which takes pressure off the hoses and limits flooding if one fails.

Then find exactly where the water starts. Electrolux makes the same point: the location of the leak decides the next step. Dry the floor, run a short cycle with the washer pulled out a few inches, and watch the back, the front and underneath with a flashlight.

What to check yourself

Fill hoses and connections

Whirlpool's leak guide says to check where each inlet hose meets the washer and the wall valve, confirm both ends have a rubber sealing washer, and tighten the connections. Look for bulges, cracks, kinks or corrosion. Whirlpool's installation instructions call for new hoses rather than reused ones, and the company recommends replacing fill hoses every five years. A drip at the back while the washer is off can point to a failing water inlet valve rather than a hose.

Drain hose and household drain

Make sure the drain hose is secured in the standpipe or laundry tub and is not cracked. Whirlpool says the household drain should carry away at least 17 gallons a minute; a slow or clogged standpipe can back up and spill onto the floor, which looks exactly like a washer leak. If the standpipe overflows during the drain, the problem is the house plumbing or the hose, not the washer. Our guide to a washer that is not draining covers clogs in more detail.

Too many suds

Whirlpool says non-HE detergent or simply too much detergent creates excess suds, which can lead to leaks and poor rinsing. On front-loaders, suds can push past the door or clog the overflow path. Use HE detergent, measure it, and run an empty rinse if you see foam on the door glass after a cycle.

Loading and leveling

On a top-loader, adding clothes after the tub has filled on the highest water level can push water over the inner basket and onto the floor; Whirlpool suggests adding no more than one or two small items. Bulky or water-resistant items and lopsided loads can also splash water over the top of the basket. An unlevel cabinet makes this worse on top-loaders and can make a front-loader leak at the door seal, so check that all feet touch the floor and the lock nuts are tight.

Front-load vs. top-load: where to look

The fix often depends on the style of washer. On a front-loader, look first at the rubber door seal (also called the door boot) and the drain pump filter. Wipe the seal and check for debris or a coin caught under its lip; a torn seal has to be replaced. Whirlpool notes a dirty drain pump filter can cause leaks during draining. On many models the filter sits behind a small panel at the bottom front (Samsung) or behind the base drawer on some Whirlpool models. Have towels and a shallow pan ready, because water comes out when you open it, and let a hot cycle cool first. A door that does not latch fully can also let water out.

A top-loader has no door seal, so leaks usually trace to hoses, overfilling, splashing or internal parts. Our comparison of front-load vs top-load washer problems explains the other differences.

Parts that fail and what a technician tests

Whirlpool lists the pump, the drain hose near the pump and the tub seal as bottom-leak causes that sit inside the machine and usually need a professional. A technician will typically:

• Run a fill and drain with the panels off to see whether water appears at the pump, the hoses inside the cabinet or the tub.
• Inspect the drain pump for a cracked housing or a worn shaft seal, which leaks mostly during the drain.
• Check internal hoses and clamps between the tub, pump and dispenser.
• Test the water inlet valve if water enters the tub or drips while the washer is off.
• Look for signs of a failed tub seal or bearing, such as rust streaks under the tub or grinding during spin.
• Inspect the door boot and latch on front-loaders.

When to stop DIY and call a pro

• Water appears from under the cabinet even with tight, dry hoses and a clear drain.
• The leak happens only during the drain or spin, which points to the pump or tub.
• The washer drips when it is off, suggesting an inlet valve problem.
• You hear grinding or see rust under the tub.
• Water has reached an outlet, cord or the floor near anything electrical. Keep the washer unplugged and the valves closed.

You can find local technicians through our washing machine repair directory, by state on the states page, or in cities like Houston and Atlanta. Brand pages such as LG washer repair and Whirlpool washer repair list companies that work on those machines.

What a leak repair costs

Fixr's published cost guide gives these typical ranges for the parts behind most leaks:

A new set of fill hoses costs far less and is often the whole fix. If the leak turns out to be a tub or bearing failure on an older washer, read our guides to washing machine repair cost and whether to repair or replace a washer before you approve the work.

Preventing the next leak

• Replace fill hoses on a schedule and use new rubber washers each time.
• Close the supply valves when the washer will sit unused.
• Use HE detergent in the measured amount.
• Keep the washer level with the lock nuts snug.
• Clean the front-load pump filter and wipe the door seal regularly; this also helps if your washer smells like mildew.