Whirlpool Washer Not Spinning or Draining: Fixes

A Whirlpool washer that won't spin or drain is usually reacting to something it can sense: a lid or door that isn't latched, an unbalanced or overloaded drum, too many suds, or water that can't get out through the drain hose. Whirlpool's own troubleshooting covers each of those, and most take minutes to fix. If they don't solve it, the lid lock or door lock, drain pump, motor or drive parts need a technician's test.

This site is an independent directory of local repair companies and is not affiliated with Whirlpool Corporation.

Check the display for a code

Many Whirlpool washers show a code when a cycle stops. These come from Whirlpool's front-load error code list; top-load models use similar codes, but confirm yours in the owner's manual.

Start with the load, the cycle and the detergent

For a front-loader that won't spin, Whirlpool's first steps are to redistribute an unbalanced or overloaded load, cut back on detergent and remember that delicate cycles spin slowly on purpose. The same logic applies to top-loaders.

• Load: one bulky item, like a comforter or bath mat, can throw the drum off balance. Spread items evenly or add a couple of towels, then run a Drain and Spin cycle.
• Overloading: clothes packed too tightly slow the spin. Take some out.
• Detergent: Whirlpool says HE washers need HE detergent only, because excess suds can stop the pump from draining and the drum from spinning. If you see foam, run a rinse with no detergent.
• Cycle: Delicate, Hand Wash and low-spin settings leave clothes wetter. That is normal.
• Level and shipping bolts: Whirlpool's vibration guidance says to remove the shipping bolts and adjust the feet until all four sit firmly on the floor. A rocking washer keeps stopping to rebalance.

Lid and door: why the washer won't spin

Whirlpool explains that both top-load and front-load models only spin when the lid or door switch reads the lid or door as fully closed and latched.

Top-load HE models with an impeller lock the lid during spin, because the basket turns at high speed. Whirlpool's lid lock guidance is to clear lint, detergent buildup or anything else blocking the lock, then unplug the washer for five minutes to reset it. A clothing item draped over the tub rim can also keep the lid from seating.

Front-load models lock the door before they spin. Check for clothing caught in the door and make sure it closes with a firm latch.

If the washer seems stuck, Whirlpool's reset advice is to make sure it is plugged in and the breaker hasn't tripped, turn off control lock if it is on, and cut power for at least a minute before trying again.

Hands-on drain checks, done safely

Before you reach into the pump filter, pull the washer out or open any panel, unplug the washer and turn off both the hot and cold supply valves. Water left in the drum may be hot, so let it cool, and have towels and a shallow pan ready.

Drain hose and standpipe

Whirlpool's top-load drain guide says to confirm the lid is latched, then look for kinks or clogs in the drain hose and make sure the standpipe height is in range. It lists a standpipe between 30 and 96 inches tall, since a drain set higher can let water flow back into the washer. Whirlpool's installation instructions also limit the hose to no more than 8 inches inside the standpipe. Ranges vary by model, so check your own instructions. If the standpipe overflows while the washer pumps out, the clog is in the house drain.

Front-load pump filter

Some Whirlpool front-loaders have a drain pump filter you can reach at the lower front of the cabinet, usually behind a small access panel or drawer. Whirlpool recommends cleaning it every few months or when lint builds up. Set a flat pan underneath, drain the water through the small hose, unscrew the filter, clear it, rinse it and screw it back in snugly. Not every model has one, so check your manual.

Top-load models

Whirlpool top-loaders use either an agitator or an impeller. The pump and internal hoses sit inside the cabinet, so beyond the drain hose and lid area, leave the inside to a technician. Our guide to front-load vs top-load washer problems explains the differences.

Likely failed parts and what a technician tests

If the code returns after the basic checks, a technician typically tests:

• Lid lock or door lock: whether it engages on command and the control reads it as locked.
• Drain pump: a hum with no water moving points to a jam; silence points to a failed pump or no power from the control.
• Motor and speed sensing: F7 E1 is a motor speed problem, so the motor, its wiring and the control get checked once overload and shipping bolts are ruled out.
• Drive belt or drive system: on belt-driven models, a worn belt lets the motor run without turning the drum.
• Suspension and shocks: worn parts let the tub swing, causing repeated unbalance stops.
• Control board: if nothing commands the drain or spin.

When to stop DIY

Call a pro if a lock or speed code keeps returning after a reset, if the drum won't spin with a small balanced load, if the pump hums without draining, if you smell burning, or if water is on the floor. For brand-neutral detail, read our guides to a washer not spinning and a washer not draining. Maytag shares Whirlpool's parent company, and our Maytag washer not draining guide covers similar codes.

What a Whirlpool spin or drain repair costs

Fixr puts a typical service call at $50 to $100. Its typical repair prices include a lid switch at $85 to $160, a door lock at $110 to $200, a drive belt at $120 to $175, shock absorbers at $150 to $300, a drain pump at $300 to $400 and a motor at $300 to $500. Fixr suggests replacing the washer when a repair would cost more than half the price of a comparable new one. See our washing machine repair cost guide and whether to repair or replace a washer.

Find a Whirlpool washer technician

Browse our Whirlpool washer repair directory, or start in a city such as Whirlpool washer repair in Seattle or Whirlpool washer repair in Phoenix.